One of the great things about my classes is I bring pretty much everything you need to complete your projects in class including the best quality paper and paints and the other extraneous stuff. You will need to bring some brushes, so please take a look at what I say about brushes here. Also, if you go the the Merri Artist website (it's a GREAT art store in McMinnville), they will have more information about these supplies and a 10% discount if you use the code attached to my name.
At some point, some of you will want to buy some of your own materials (i.e., set up your own paint tray of colors and get more paper) to paint with at home. If you want to work on a project that is bigger or smaller than a quarter sheet (11" x 14") you'll definitely need to get your own paper. Some students want to work from their own supplies and more power to you!
Here is a list of what we use in class:
Angela Wrahtz’s SUPPLIES LIST FOR
“WATERCOLOR with Pen
& Ink”
1.
WC Art journal/Sketchbook: Lots of sizes to choose from, just
don’t skimp on weight of paper otherwise you defeat yourself (i.e., don’t go
less than #90 lb.) I love the
Strathmore “Windpower Watercolor, Cold Press & Acid Free” kind (red cover)
and are 9” x 12” in size and contain 15 sheets at 140lbs per sheet weight. If you go with a different brand, look for
“140 lb cold press” as the quality of the paper is everything...poor paper
quality will compromise your results.
2. Paper: The
most important item on this list. The right paper is EVERYTHING. Two full
sheets (22” X 30”) of #140 lb. Cold Press watercolor paper (NOT cold press
rough or hot press) by Arches, Fabriano, or any other professional grade. We
will paint on quarter sheets (11” x 15”) Okay to get WC paper in “block” form
but make sure to get minimum 10” x 14” size. Arches sells blocks of 20 sheets
to various sizes.
3. Masonite Board
(water-resistant on one side at least) to tape your paper to for support. 13” x
19” inches is ideal. (Available for purchase in class for $5.) Not needed if
you’re working off a block.
4. Palette with lid. A good size rectangular plastic palette with paint wells around the
outside and a good size mixing area in the inside. The palette should measure
about 10” x 16” and contain at least 18 wells. There are various manufactures
of these palettes, but they are all around the same size/configuration/price. We
use John Pike WC Palettes with 18 wells in class.
5. Paint: Student
or professional grade (I highly recommend using professional watercolors) tube
watercolor paint such as M. Graham, Daniel Smith, Schminke, Holbein, Winsor
Newton. My favorite is M. Graham because it is made with honey and has a
special vibrancy and glow. We use M. Graham in our paint trays in class.
6. Colors: Azo
Yellow, Gamboge, Naphthol Red, Quinacridone Rose, Maroon Perylene, Dioxizine
Purple, Ultramarine Blue, Phthalo Blue, Cerulean Blue, Phthalo Green, Sap
Green, Permanent Pale Green, Nickel Quinacridone Gold (NQ Gold), Burnt Sienna, Raw
Sienna, Peyne’s Gray. All my colors are M. Graham but if you have other
manufacturers paint, use what you have. Okay to mix manufacturers.
7. Correction color: Little jar of Dr. PH Martin’s Bleed-Proof White.
8. Quality Paint Brushes: Suggested sizes Round #8 and #12. I suggest a combination natural and
synthetic hair. Don’t go too cheap! This size brush is a real workhorse. A
small round #4 or #6. If you want a recommendation, Black Velvet brand is nice.
My favorite is the Connoisseur brand. Get round #6 or #8 size, model #357 and a
Connoisseur Risslon oval wash (i.e., “cat’s tongue”) ¾” size, model #046. The Merri Artist website gives a variety of value, medium, and professional recommendations under my class list.
9. Old scrub brush
for lifting, or buy a couple of “scrubbers.” Not expensive.
10. Pencil. A small
graphite drawing pencil (can simply be a soft Ticonderoga office pencil)
11. Eraser.
Important to get a Kneaded Eraser or Staedtler Mars so as not to damage your
good paper! I use Faber-Castell Kneadable Erasers. (excellent and inexpensive)
12. Optional --Tracing Paper and Graphite Paper. One is to capture an image by
seeing through the tracing paper. The graphite paper is essentially carbon
paper to transfer from your source to your paper when you don’t have a light
table or when you are working on watercolor blocks.
13. Tape: ½ to 1”
wide 3M blue painter’s tape or any other masking tape that can keep out water
but will not harm the watercolor paper when pulling off (only if you want straight
edges around your painting when you’re done.)
14. A box of Mr. Clean (original) Magic Erasers again for lifting.
15. Optional--Masking fluid (miskit): I’m not a huge fan of this type of product or process, but
it definitely has its uses. This is totally optional, but if you like this way
of painting, Winsor Newton Masking Fluid or Pebeo Drawing Gum works well. You’ll
need to have some inexpensive brushes and toothpicks to use with the miskit so
as not to ruin your good WC brushes.
16. One big round straw
17. One stick of white conte crayon
18. Lifting tools:
A roll of absorbent kitchen paper towels, absorbent cloth or sponge to soak up
extra water on your brush
19. Old washcloths and
towels for wipe up.
20. Water container.
21. Spray bottle
that gives a nice mist.
22. Variety of waterproof (i.e., “permanent”) pens. Sharpies are great and truly
permanent but are limited in size options. If getting Sharpies, get “Fine” and “Ultra
Fine.” Other options include Pigma Micron, Staedtler, and Faber-Castell Pitt.
Okay to use inks colors in addition to black. Consider getting a 6-pack of
small to medium sized pens by Sakura Pigma Micron.
23. Ruler or some
sort of straight edge
Other items to consider (the list could go on and on…):
· Apron (some of
the paints are staining.)
· Plastic cover for your work surface
· Art bag to put everything in.
